Diary of Moscow Fashion Week. Day 1
On Monday, June 20, 2022, started Moscow Fashion Week 2022. WFC special correspondent Ekaterina Belyaeva shares her impressions and stylish notes.
Two legendary events took place on the opening day of this unprecedented and, of course, historical in scale event (like three venues at the same time, more than 120 designers, 69 shows).
Under the open summer sky, in the main amphitheater of Zaryadye Park, a show was held by the master of Russian fashion - Vyacheslav Zaitsev and his Fashion House SLAVA ZAITSEV. The main guest of the show was Vyacheslav Mikhailovich himself. Despite his illness, he drove to Zaryadye, smiled sweetly and rejoiced at all those present.
Of course, the show at SLAVA ZAITSEV is not about the fashion trends of future seasons. This is a show of the legend of Russian fashion - a couturier who stood at the origins of fashion and today's grandiose successes of domestic clothing designers.
Jackets and corsets illustrate the red Dior era.
Airy silhouettes, fluffy skirts could well be walked by, say, Kerry Bradshaw, and hats with feathers and flowers are quite worthy of Royal Ascot, but they will surely be walked by the capital's fashionistas in the Moscow derby.
And certainly some items from the fashion show presented on June 20 by Slava Zaitsev's house can be stylized in such a way that even Lotta Volkova and Demna Gvasalia will envy.
Needless to say, the panoramic view of the Kremlin and its cathedrals, the Spasskaya Tower and the Cathedral of Christ the Savior, opening from the seats of the Zaryadye park main amphitheater, not only added drama, but also brought tears of pride and emotion.
The second significant event of the first day was a unique show of famous Russian designers, which was called "Big".
On a warm summer evening, GUM's shopping lines turned into a podium for the fashion show of the current season collections of such brands as: Ruban, Daniil Berg, Artem Krivda, Rogov, DBRKV by Katya Dobryakova, LES', Yana, Chapurin, Bosco Sport&Fresh, Mesterpeace, LOOM, GOOROO, Naked Shoulders, Siamm Siamm, Fetiche. At the same time, GUM was open to customers and absolutely all Muscovites and guests of the capital, who were walking around the country's main department store, could witness such a large-scale fashion show. This format of communication with the consumer is unprecedented and will definitely bear fruit in the form of new devoted fans of all these brands.
I cannot but note that the show was styled by the incomparable Daniil Berg, the former creative director of TSUM, the owner of his own brand Daniil Berg and simply a unique person who has everything beautifully - from an impeccably thought out personal style to cutlery and antique dishes on the dining table of a country house. That is, you already have a little idea how wonderful and touching the last show was.
In addition to the "epochal" fashion shows, on the first day of Moscow Fashion Week, such brands as Julia Dalakian, COSHE, IANIS CHAMALIDY, DAS presented their collections.
Julia Dalakian presented a collection of her brand Julia Dalakian on the first day of Moscow Fashion Week for a reason. Julia is a real “veteran” of Russian Fashion Weeks and has been participating in them since 2001, and in various competitions and exhibitions since 1990. Julia's clothes are always unexpected textures and non-trivial design solutions. This time the collection came out in discreet colors - mostly black, gray and brown. A lot of leather and velvet make the collection dramatic and practical at the same time, while romantic bows and ruffles, jackets in the form of uniform frock coats seem to make a nod to the 19th century and remind you that there is and will always be time for romance.
The collection of the COSHÈ brand showed us minimalism, sophistication, combinations of textures and high quality fabrics. The collection has a balance between fashion trends and timeless classics, the color palette of the show is seasoned and noble. Even seemingly bright green looks noble and luxurious. It is very likely that the founder of the brand, Svetlana Knyazhina, was inspired by the creativity of the Olsen sisters (The Row), the timeless images created by Phoebe Philo (former creative director of Celine) and the Chloe fashion house when creating the collection. As a result of such inspiration - a wearable collection, individual items from which or images in general will definitely find their place in the wardrobe of more than one Russian fashionista. Special mention deserves the casting and music of the show. The models so organically corresponded to the concept of the Fashion House in general and the presented collection in particular, that with their passages they involuntarily drew pictures from the future everyday life of the clothes presented to the attention of the guests.
Ianis Chamalidi, a true Petersburger, deconstructivist and functionalist, also presented a new collection of his eponymous brand Ianis Chamalidy on the first day of Moscow Fashion Week. In addition to the press and fans of the brand, friends of the fashion house visited the show, among them were Alexander Vasiliev, Valeria and Iosif Prigozhin, Sergey Zverev. The business card of Ianis Chamalidi, in addition to deconstruction and functionality, is black. The presented collection abounds with them, but upon closer examination, we see white dresses and gray bombers with raincoats, and jackets, but the absolute highlight is a dress with a perfect press print.
The first day of the Moscow Fashion Week turned out to be rich in interesting shows and events, and there are still 6 days of shows, a business program and presentations ahead. Well, I wish seven feet under the keel to all designers!
