The new Erdem collection was inspired by the nightlife of prominent women who embodied the progressive cultural spirit of Berlin in the 1930s: Jeanne Mammen, Elfriede Lohse-Wächtler, Anita Berber and Valeska Gert.
Nearly a century before a term like "non-binary" was added to our vocabulary, creatives like them were dressing up and opening Germany's first lesbian bars amid the looming darkness of war and extreme conservatism.
The show has become a truly insightful and completely mesmerizing theater of feelings. The most sophisticated part of the show of Erdem's darkest and most intimidating collection was the moment when a series of subdued, night-coloured jacquard dresses crumbled before our eyes.
Each look has a distinct sense of glamour: crumbling like these jacquard dresses, dominant like a gray skirt suit with metal studs, fragile like a transparent black dress embroidered with tiny pearls, or flowing like lace dresses with shiny black sequins.
The designer of the Erdem brand knows how to reflect modern waves in the motives of the past: “It was interesting for that time and period. I liked the idea that it was a club and maybe they were leaving like ghosts. It's the end of the night and they're going away…" he said.