Christelle Kocher presented her Koché collection at the Westin Hotel, where maestro Yves Saint Laurent once staged couture shows. The choice of location was deliberate. Discussing her motivation, she said, "It's an opportunity to revisit a certain fashion idea, combine it with punk energy and something warm, comfortable."
The punk element came through in the collection with leather suspenders and elbow-length mittens. The warm and comfortable aspects were more evident: thick sweaters were paired with tulle skirts; a strapless dress in thinner jersey with lace; and thick tracksuits in fine jacquard with YSL logo.
Kocher also designed a "comeback collection" for Charles Jourdan, a shoemaker who flourished in the 70s and 80s. The shoes were presented tonight on the catwalk. Despite the metallic socks, brocaded clothing, and rosette appliqués on the shoulders, the overall impression was more bourgeois than punk.
Kocher was one of the first Parisian designers started to talk about streetwear in the mid-2010s. Her shows had an electricity that made them trendy. As the world works to reclaim its post-Covid sensibility, reconnecting with that vibe could become successful. One need only look at the hundreds and hundreds of young Parisians crowding the showrooms this week to know that fashion is taking place on the streets.