‘Why have there been no great women artists?’ – this message opened the new show by Maria Grazia Chiuri. This phrase was featured on the sailor shirt of the Dior opening look shown by Sasha Pivovarova. Moreover, Linda Nochlin’s same-name manifest was placed on the guests’ seats.
So, the designer continued exploring feminism theme in her creations and couldn’t miss a chance to ‘make a hit’ with another political slogan.
Her main inspiration source was Niki de Saint Phalle, artist and sculptor, a ‘new realism’ adept. Niki’s creative heritage includes Stravinsky Fountain in Paris which she created in collaboration with her husband. Dior collection centered around the elements of the famous artist’s personal style, including sailor shirts, bonnets with net veils, lacquered leather trench coats, golden pajamas, voluminous fur coats and so on.
The location was inspired by Niki de Saint Phalle’s glass sculptures. The walls, the floor and the ceiling featured thousands of pieces of glass – which reminded us of Niki’s Tarot Garden in Tuscany, a result of a years-long work.
The designer also addressed the millennials esthetics in her ready-to-wear collection: the models were wearing literally everything from 70s-inspired patchwork jeans to leather jumpsuits, pants suits, glitter dresses and voluminous tulle skirts.
Maria Grazia Chiuri is an audacious designer who solves two immediate fashion industry problems in her collections: first, how to express a social position in your creations and make your show differ from a typical next season’s wardrobe runway presentation, second, how to satisfy a millennial client who’s one of the key players of the fashion industry.
Text: Polina Sitnikova
Photo: press-office Dior