For 16 years already, Chanel Métiers d’art collection continues travelling all over the world: Rome, Shanghai, Edinburgh, Salzburg, Mumbai, New York, Paris… Each time, the choice of the location is no fluke, as each of these cities is tightly bound either to the history of the fashion house or to the collection. This time, Karl Lagerfeld decided to go to Germany, his motherland.
However, the Kaiser sais this choice was mainly motivated not by his nostalgia for childhood days but by the incredible beauty of the Elbe Philharmonic Hall and its glass façade created by Swiss duo – Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron. The hall is rightly considered one of the most interesting buildings in modern Europe. So, can there be a better location for Karl’s new masterpieces?
And here’s another reason to choose Hamburg: one of the major European harbors is located there – and the collection was inspired by the sea.
Marine esthetics is reflected in the very first outfit. German model Anna Ewers opened the show wearing a voluminous sweater dress, a cap and knitted knee high socks. The outfit was matched with a bag. Later, men wearing flared trousers and chunky sweaters appeared. They looked like jaunty sailors due to their smoking pipes.
This season, Lagerfeld combines sailor style and provocative beatnik fashion that was especially popular in the 60s. Relaxed waif-inspired looks get mixed up with pieces that resemble reserved officers’ uniforms: sweaters with extra-long sleeves that cover models’ hands, flawless-cut culottes, fitting double-breasted coats, jackets with big buttons, big backpacks, suits with sailor collars and caps paired with tulle scarfs.
There is also a great selection of looks for special occasions: dress coats, snow white vests, bowties, asymmetric tweed dresses, velvet suits, loose silk pants, puffy tutu skirts with sequins, cocktail mini dresses embellished with feathers… Fashionistas will surely fall in love with royal style-inspired shoes with bows.
Métiers d’art collection is an homage to ateliers that the fashion house collaborates with. Headdresses are made by Maison Michel, Maison Longon can be praised for the special treatment of the fabrics, Maison Montex designers create intricate décor using thousands of beads, diamond and crystals, while Scottish manufacturer Barrie responds for knitwear.
The soundtrack of the show celebrated this noble, classy feeling, too, as cello player Oliver Coates performed.
Text: Elina Shevchenko
Photo: press-office Chanel